Agüita Wine Specialist

A plate of olives and something cured is about the extent of the kitchen's ambition, and that's the right call. Agüita (little water, a sommelière's joke I enjoy) saves its seriousness for the glass. The line-up changes with whoever is on that night, and every bottle seems to have won an argument to be there, most of them leaning low-intervention. Ask what's open and you'll get an answer with an opinion attached, which is how a small room should work. Wednesday to Sunday, evenings only, and better for it. I wouldn't build a week around the place, but every few months, when the usual map bores me, I want exactly this: a calm counter and something odd in the glass. Each visit earns the next.