Our waiter remembered us, or did a flawless impression of it, and the second visit unfolded with the fluency the first had promised. A year between them, and if anything the cooking has tightened. This is Catalan cooking taken seriously: regional roots pushed onward with real technique, tradition and invention balanced more evenly than I can recall seeing elsewhere. Jordi Vilà's kitchen does nothing for effect alone; every gesture answers to flavour, the seasoning exact, the produce respected to the point of deference. What struck me on returning was the discipline beneath the invention, easier to sense once the surprise has worn off. In the Fàbrica Moritz building it remains one of the city's most assured tables. I book it well ahead, and it has yet to disappoint.
Order this: The full tasting menu, and let the kitchen lead.
PPau M.
Lead critic · We Know Barcelona
Wrote the lead review above.
Book ahead; the room fills with people who take Catalan cooking as seriously as this kitchen does. What stayed with me was the produce itself, treated as the point rather than the platform. Tradition and invention sit in rare balance here, the seasoning exact, the technique everywhere and showing off nowhere. Every few months I find a reason, and each visit the roots taste deeper.
Halfway through a slow weekday lunch, I stopped choosing and asked the kitchen to decide for me. It was the right surrender. Catalan tradition and invention sit in balance here the way few rooms manage, seasoning exact, produce given its full due, each plate quietly making the case for the one after it. Ordering becomes less a decision than an introduction. Arrive with empty hands and let them be filled.
My plan had been to order lightly; it was one of those flat grey winter lunchtimes when the Eixample looks like an accountant's dream, and the weather rewrote it. Cold days want Catalan cooking with roots, and this kitchen supplies just that, invention laid over tradition so evenly you cannot see the join. Seasoning spot on, produce treated with something close to reverence. Rarely does a miserable sky eat this well.
Each critic scores, verdicts and writes independently after their own visits. Where they disagree, we leave it on the page.
Reviewed by our panel of 4 critics · a living guide, updated July 2026.