Can Pineda
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Our take
A room this settled can't be decorated into existence; it has to be earned service by service, and Can Pineda has clearly been earning it since long before anyone thought to write about Sant Martí. The moment that won me over: mid-rush, one of the waiters caught my companion eyeing the slow-cooked plate at the next table and brought over a spoonful to try, unasked, as though hospitality were the point rather than the performance. The cooking is old-school Catalan without a flicker of irony, slow, seasonal, deeply sauced, and the distance from the sightseeing circuit keeps the clientele local and the standards where they should be. Book ahead, note the Sunday and Monday closing, arrive hungry and in no hurry. I'll be back every few months without needing a reason, which is about the highest compliment I keep.
Lead critic · We Know Barcelona