Cruix

One plate in and I had stopped worrying about the choice. Deciding what to order here is the pleasant sort of problem: the menu is contemporary and ambitious, priced sensibly enough that a wrong turn would not sting, and the honest answer is to hand the whole question back to the kitchen with the set tasting menu, where the craft shows fullest. I will be plain: not everything works. The odd plate arrives busier than it needs to be, a garnish too many where the produce could have spoken alone. But the ratio of craft to price is strong, and there is hunger in this kitchen, the useful kind, the kind that improves. I go back every so often to see what has sharpened. Something always has.