Incorrecte

Go at lunch. That is my honest advice for Incorrecte, and I say it with affection. At midday the room in Sarrià-Sant Gervasi is relaxed, the kitchen has space to breathe, and the ambition on the plate feels like an invitation rather than a performance. At dinner the same cooking can wobble under the weight of the evening; a dish that charmed me at two o'clock felt hurried at nine. But listen, I would rather eat somewhere that reaches and occasionally misses than another careful room playing it safe. There is personality here, a cook's pride, fair value for what arrives. Not yet a table I need often; I will look in again next year to see how it has grown, because it is growing, and lunch is where you see it best.