Jara

Pale wood, vinegared rice on the air, a counter scrubbed the way my mother scrubbed hers: Jara makes its case before the first piece is set down. Omakase means handing over every decision, which does not come naturally to me, but these are careful hands and the produce deserves the trust. What I really want to talk about is the end of the night, when the folder lands. This format has taught Barcelona some silly prices; here I added the total up twice out of old habit and found nothing to quarrel with. Not cheap, mind. Fairly counted, which is a different thing. I stepped out into Sant Gervasi feeling looked after rather than fleeced, and that feeling is the verdict. They close Monday and Tuesday. Once a year, when I want the ceremony of the counter, I will be back on that stool.