Llamber

I'd all but settled on the safer, more Catalan end of the menu before the Asturian side won the argument, which tells you the useful thing about Llamber: it pulls in two directions and mostly keeps its balance. This is an easy Born taberna, open every day from lunch until midnight, the sort of address you slip into without a fortnight's plotting. Now, the flaw that matters. The cooking is amiable rather than adhesive; a week on, I could not draw you a single plate from memory. Does that sink it? Not quite. A forgiving, casual format is allowed to trade thrill for ease, and the value keeps to the sensible side of the ledger. I left content, which was precisely the bargain on offer. I'll be back, though probably not before another year has gone round, and I mean that kindly.