Mont Bar

Forget dinner, or at least postpone it. Lunch is when Mont Bar makes its strongest case: daylight in the room, an unforced pace, plates given time to be read instead of rushed. My blunt view is that this kitchen cooks at a level its easy manner undersells. The creative side stays anchored in the Mediterranean, temperatures are watched closely, and the real signature is knowing when to stop, dishes that end one element short of where fashion would push them. Dinner is very good too, only busier, and the ease that sets the room apart thins as the evening fills. Come at midday and order from the à la carte; the kitchen does the rest. Mine is a table for every season of the year, booked for one o'clock without exception.