Suru

One grumble first: there are never enough seats at the counter, and the counter is where you want to be. Sit close and you see the point of Suru. Small plates come from hands that clearly care about heat and timing, each thing pulled off the flame at the right moment, and the pours are chosen with the same attention. The list leans natural, but nothing here is dogma; what ends up in your glass feels picked for you, that evening, by someone who tasted it first. I keep going back and let the place decide the order of things. It has never once steered me wrong, and I've stopped pretending I have a say. Come without a plan and without a hurry; the counter will do the rest.