Char in the air before I found the door, that sweet-bitter grill smell that makes promises on a kitchen's behalf. Inside, my whole decision came down to a coin flip between two dishes off the fire, and honestly, either answer would have been right, which tells you what Ultramarinos Marín is about. Borja Marín buys well and cooks plainly: salt where it belongs, heat pulled at the right moment, zero interest in turning dinner into content. My gripe is that fine never graduates to thrilling here; everything lands in the same comfortable register, and I left full but not fizzing. Still, there's one lazy lunch a year where this room is exactly the right call. Good product, rustic charm, no homework. Some years that's the entire assignment.
Order this: Anything the grill touched that day; simpler is better here.
RRachel K.
Lead critic · We Know Barcelona
Wrote the lead review above.
A plate of the day's fish, simply cooked and seasoned with sense, tells you most of what this kitchen believes: shop well, then get out of the way. The flaw, if I am frank, is the bill; for cooking this deliberately unadorned it stings a little. Does that sink the place? No. You eat calmly and well, as at the house of someone who shops daily. It does keep my visits to about one a year.
Inside, the room has the unbothered air of a place that shops better than it decorates, and on the drizzly grey Tuesday I chose, that was exactly the mood required. Honest market cooking, the culinary equivalent of a well-worn coat (I mean that as praise). Nothing astonishes; nothing lets you down. A long, simple lunch while the weather sulks outside, roughly annually, is precisely its measure.
Outside, the same calm Sarrià street as my first visit: shutters, plane trees, nobody in a hurry. Inside, the same careful shopping on the plate, which is both the compliment and the caveat. Ultramarinos Marín cooks good produce simply, just as it did before, and the second visit confirmed the first without deepening it. Once a year it fits me like an old coat, one long lazy lunch and home happy. I only wish the return had surprised me somewhere.
Each critic scores, verdicts and writes independently after their own visits. Where they disagree, we leave it on the page.
Reviewed by our panel of 4 critics · a living guide, updated July 2026.